And for non-breaking wave the horizontal particle velocity can be estimated by using regular wave theory.

对于非破波，质点的水平速度可以由规则波理论得到。

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For breaking wave the horizontal particle velocity can be taken as the wave celerity, since the wave is breaking when horizontal particle velocity is equal to or larger than the wave celerity.

而对于破波，质点的水平速度应该等与波速，由于破波产生的极限就是质点的水平速度等于或大于波速。

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